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When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary achievement.